The church of Sveti Petar na Vrhu (St. Peter on the Peak) above the famous Tundulon hill northeast of Bale is extremely interesting; a real treasure for researchers of history and cultural heritage. It belongs to the parish of Bale but is closer to the Savičenta area. The nearest settlement is the village of Kranjčići. The villages of Bibići, Štokovci and Čabrunići also gravitate to this area and it is here that their people keep their fields and pick young wild asparagus in season.
The church is located on a cliffFar away from peopleA truly magical place
Why does the church deserve attention and why is it provoking such interest of the who have managed to visit it? Managed to, I say, because the way to it is not simple. It follows gravel and forest paths, with the final approach from the direction of Tundulon, through a crevice in the rock, overgrown with vegetation.
A pond on Tundulon
It is not surprising that before finding the church itself, curious visitors wander around the area, visiting the famous pond on Tundulon and climbing the hill offering a view over the Savičenta and Vodnjan areas and the seaside at Bale.
Forest path
The shortest road is certainly through the nearby Kranjčići. Today, it is easy to reach the church over a macadam road leading to Bale, particularly with some directions from the locals. In addition, marked cycle path 690 also leads to the church.
After rain, water from the karst hill flows into the pondRich vegetation
The church is also accessible from Čabrunići as well as from the direction of Bale, by a macadam road directly across from the olive oil mill. Before the entry into the Šeraje forest that shelters the peak with St. Peter’s, there is a rest post on the path offering a description of the church and the path. Should you choose that route, you are certain not to miss your destination. For the adventurous, the path from the pond on Tundulon is interesting because it takes you to the hidden church through a forest and an impressive crevice in the rock wall.
The church is surrounded by the Šeraje forest
Whatever path you take, your effort will be rewarded by the sight of the modest and simple church on the top off a large cliff wall of the picturesque hill. As evidenced by the inscription above the entrance, it was completely renovated in 1904.
The inscription above the entrance to the churchNarrow window on the back wall
A brief note on the creation and appearance of the church can be found in Ante Šonje’s book “Church Architecture on the West Coast of Istria”. The building has an oblong plan without an apse. Its back wall features a narrow rectangular window similar to the early Romanesque churches in the Poreč-Pula Diocese.
The legend of the horseman and his wow
On the north side is a small chapel with a pointed Gothic vault, which indicates that it is older than the church itself. According to Šonje, the Bishop of Poreč erected the church of Sveti Petar na Vrhu on his property in the 14th century at the latest. In the Middle Ages it was owned by the episcopal estate in Poreč, while after the Second World War, the then parish priest sold the land plots around the church to the residents of the nearby Kranjčić village.
Simple but impressive
Many wonder why the church was built here, in a place so remote from the populated areas. Some say that, like the church of St. Fosca in Batvači, the site radiates a special energy. We could not find confirmation of this among the locals in Kranjčići. At one point, however they did tell us of an interesting legend. The church was allegedly built in gratitude to St. Peter. The story has it that a horseman fleeing before a posse of Turks in a mediaeval war happened upon the rock where the church is now located.
The church was built in the 14th century
He realized he had nowhere further to go and appealed to St. Peter, asking him for help. In return, he wowed to build a church on the spot. And that is what eventually happened. Residents of the nearby settlements remember the church in its better days. Back then, the Holy Mass was served there once a year, attended equally by people of Bale and the residents of the Savićenta villages.
Processions and Mass
Devastated interior
According to their recollections, a procession would pass through Kranjčići on the way to the church, where people would camp for a few days.
Today, the church is unfortunately ruined and devastated. Locals say it was also robbed at one point. Only the inscriptions are preserved. The one above the front door tells the visitor of the last rebuilding of the church. The stone slab below the bell tower it says “Tibi dabo claves” which means “I am giving you the keys”.
The church is surrounded by large oaks
There was an initiative a few years ago to have the church rebuilt, and there is hope of something like that happening in the near future. The Holy Mass was held again this year, the woods around the church itself have been cleared, and so was the pathway that leads here from the main road. As more and more cyclists, walkers, and the faithful are visiting the site, we believe that Sveti Petar na Vrhu will finally receive the attention it deserves.
DESERVED REFRESHMENT:
HIKER’S INN PEKICI, Pekici 1
PIZZERIA GRIMANI, Svetvinčenat 71
PIZZERIA PALACE, Svetvinčenat 45A
CASTELLO RESTAURANT, Svetvinčenat 53
KAMPANJOLA EKO BIRA, tasting of fresh cottage cheese and the Kampanjola craft beer, Svetvinčenat 3
WHAT ELSE TO SEE:
MOROSINI-GRIMANI CASTLE, Svetvinčenat
WITCH MARA’S HOUSE, Svetvinčenat
SANCT MICHAEL THEME PARK, Rapanji
I was totally blown away by the place, and left speechless. A true winter idyll by the sea. From the photos, one would think it was the middle of summer. The Stjepan Hauser Trail in Rakalj — which I call the Hauser Trail for short — is ideal for those who do not want too much exertion, who like walking close to the edge of the sea, but in the wild. The trail is dedicated and named after the world-famous cellist, who lives right here in Rakalj.
A narrow path for pedestrians and cyclists
The path at the foot of Rakalj partakes of a true Robinson Crusoe-style loneliness. There are no houses, roads, cars or ports. Just a rocky path, macchia shrub, holm oak, beautiful turquoise bays and views of the bay of Raša, the islands of Cres and Lošinj. An ideal day for walking or cycling on the Rakalj path of health and anti-stress is a winter day without wind. The kind of day when you need to recharge your batteries.
View of Old Rakalj from the trailWinter idyllView of the Labin side of the bay of Raša
The way to the Luka bay
The path is easy to reach. Take a car from the center of the town to the Sveti Nikola (St. Nicholas) lighthouse and the harbor there, with several houses. Turn along the houses and the restaurant and turn right, towards the south, along the coast line. The trail from there is not marked, but it is difficult to miss the path. From Sveti Nikola it takes you along the sea all the way to the Luka bay. This beautiful pebble cove will elicit sighs even as you begin the descent, while you are still at the top, where the old citadel, the Stari Rakalj, used to stand.
Sveti Nikola lighthouse
The ruin there is being explored and excavated little by little and is gradually starting to show its former face to the public. As recently as 15 years ago there was just a small area surrounded by stone dry wall to indicate to a layman that anything notable had existed there in the past.
The former citadel was abandoned in 1510.
Diligent archaeologists and conservationists have meanwhile commenced clearing the detritus and uncovering the remains of the former fort guarding the bay of Raša. Today, one can see parts of the defense ramparts, two meters thick and six meters high. Also visible is the outline of a former tower overlooking today’s Rakalj. An old cistern has been dug from under the vegetation and accumulated rocks, and restored. Historians claim that there was a settlement outside the ramparts, but only the foundations of the houses along the northwestern slopes of the hill are still preserved.
Castellare de Rachir
The Stari Rakalj or Rachele citadel was first mentioned in written sources in 1312, as Castellare de Rachir. The document is the deed of gift by which Henrik, Count of Gorizia, bequeaths Castellare de Rachir to his daughter Elizabeth and her fiancé Nikola von Pramberg. It is said that the current name, Stari Rakalj (Old Rakalj), dates from the 16th century, and derives from the Latin arcellae, meaning a small citadel or a cliff.
The remains of the ramparts and the cistern
Recent archaeological research has found that the location was already inhabited in the Bronze Age, some 3500 years ago. Some archaeologists believe that the hill was fortified since the beginning of the development of this settlement on the eastern coast of Istria. They base it on the finds in the lower level of excavations of the former citadel, including pottery.
Plundered by pirates
The citadel had a significant strategic position throughout its illustrious history — it was located on a hill above the entrance to the bay of Raša and could control the passage of ships into and out of the bay. Old Rakalj was surrounded by high ramparts, part of which is still visible. Such good defense construction enabled it to withstand any and all attacks. It thus managed to resist the 1330 attack by the forces of the Castropola family of Pula, which wanted to enlarge their estate. Forty years later it was taken over by the Habsburgs. After that, Rakalj was known by various Germanic names: Ragkl, Rekel, Rachir and Roegkl.
Pirate Zuan Maria de Soldatis of Muggia
Rakalj was inhabited until about 1510. At that time, the Old Rakalj citadel was completely destroyed in the Venetian-Habsburg war. It was destroyed by Venetian subjects from Mutvoran led by infamous pirate Zuan Maria de Soldatis of Muggia, whose forces stormed it from the sea. After they conquered it, the attackers looted everything, including the bell from the church of St. Agnes. (The church still stands.) Local people decided to erect a new settlement, in the area of present-day Rakalj. It was first mentioned in 1508 under the name Castel Nuovo detto Rachel.
The Church of St. Agnes — simple yet magical
In addition to a part of the ramparts, a tower and the cistern, also preserved is the church of St. Agnes (St. Agnjija in local parlance). From the church a view opens to the open sea and towards the south of Istria. When the visibility is good, one can see as far as the Marlera lighthouse on the southern tip of the peninsula. It is one of the most beautiful scenic view points in Istria and the place that many young couples choose for the marriage ceremony. The church itself is not opulent. It is a simple structure with an inset apse, a late Gothic entrance portal dating from 1495, and a bell gable. It was the Rakalj parish church until 1555.
Luka bayRobinson Crusoe’s secluded spot
But let’s get back to the trail at the foot of Old Rakalj and St. Agnes. Immediately after passing the port, you will reach the Luka bay we mentioned earlier. The small pebble cove is quite isolated. Only a few narrow forest paths lead all the way to Rakalj.
A few fishermen are likely to be around
Along the coast to Kalavojna
That’s why it is ideal for people who like to go for a secluded swim by a boat. An additional attraction is a wreck of an old ship in the shallows just off the shore. After passing this secluded cove, a narrow path takes you further along the edge of the sea to the Kalavojna bay. In translation, Kalavojna means Good Wine. It is the favorite beach and boat harbor of the people of Rakalj and their guests. This is where the path ends. You can turn around and return in the opposite direction, or, if you are more ambitious, climb from Kalavojna to Rakalj and thence down again to Sveti Nikola. It’s about ten kilometers of hiking trail. Whatever you decide, you are unlikely to regret it, and sure to visit Rakalj again.
The first time I was passing through dense woods near village of Pekici close to San Vincenti, I felt strong scent of lavender. I wasn’t not sure from where this intensive intoxicating aroma is coming from since I was standing in the middle of the woods. Then I looked to the right and through green treetops I saw something purple. Stop, I yelled to Korina, we must go there! We left our bicycles in the middle of the road and jumped through thick branches over dry wall. Suddenly we found ourselves in fairytale. Beautiful field of blossoming lavender around us and in the middle a picturesque kažun. Have we just come to Provence?
Pekica family field of lavender has four hectaresAnd in the middle of the field kažun
We couldn’t set apart from this scene, this purple beauty. Two years later we went to the same location, and although lavender wasn’t blossoming, it was still impressive. Ten days ago we returned to it again and decided to enjoy in scent and sight.
Lavender is being picked in mid-JulyPekica family started the business twelve years ago
Of course, even after first visit I knew that the lavender fields belong to Pekica family, of the same name as the village. They started the business twelve years ago and all begun in Vodnjan with a project of lavender planting on neglected land, based on similar projects with planting olive trees and grapevine.
Lavander on neglected land
Unfortunately, Vodnjan project wasn’t successful, however several families stayed in the business. Among them Aleksandra, Feručo, Valerio, Emil and Mihael. Today they are satisfied but it wasn’t easy at the beginning. Aleksandra tells us it was her idea since she always like to create something new.
Aleksandra Pekica
-We decided to plant lavender on the insofar neglected land, so we’ve got area of four hectares under this plant which we use for production of olive oil, souvenirs, aromatic bags, hydrolytes, soaps, but also food supplements. We planted 36 thousand seedlings – Aleksandra explains on her peaceful estate in a village with ten inhabitants. And it’s a vivid estate – home garden on entrance together with still functioning oven, then two donkeys meet us in spacious yard with a view on old stone house with huge arbor packed with rich trusses. Here is also a hen with small chickens, while gooses are a bit further. Playful little dogs accompany us while lazy cats are looking for most suitable place for napping.
Family Pekica estateThey are comfortable tooWho would resist them
Right here in this authentic ambient Aleksandra and her family meet guests during their manifestation Lavender days which take place beginning of July, but also whenever groups announce themselves. It is an ideal opportunity for them to present their products, but not only souvenirs and cosmetics, but also something for eating and drinking. After all they are a family farm.
I knead laveder in bread
– For food I only use eatable lavender, of course, and I mostly sprinkle it. I only knead it in homemade bread and Istrian cookies – Aleksandra tells us, but she doesn’t reveal the cookies’ recipe. This is her little secrets. Still, she says, to knead them one needs flavor, butter or lard, lavender in powder, eggs, little bit of sugar and salt, coconut, lemon crust, chocolate and powder sugar for top. The rest is cook’s secret. They go best with morning coffee or tea. Of course, on a terrace with a green view. The the scent of lavender comes to the fore.
Secret aromatic cookies
The bread with lavender is made in standard way, only she puts minced dry lavender in it. And the freshness which intoxicates you when bread comes out of oven is incredible. The smell of bread and lavender in one. Very unusual mix.
Aromatic breadCurd with lavenderRavioli with cheese and lavender
One definitely starts to droll when Aleksandra bring her homemade curd with lavender on table together with lavender ravioli. Namely, the family has 14 sheep and they make their own dairy products. For their own purpose, of course. Her husband Feručo says they always have had sheep with one short break. But now they don’t give to anybody anymore. With a male side of a family he takes care for numerous domestic animals that can be seen here. That makes him happy and he wouldn’t change this kind of life for any city.
They are opening an excursion site
How would he when after a long day here in the shadow of his arbor he can drink a glass of lavender juice or even rakia of he wishes something stronger. For rakia recipe we don’t ask, but the juice has intrigued us.
Noon rest
-Based on elder syrup, I started to make lavender syrup as well. It’s the same method. On three liters of water I put two full fists of eatable lavender flower, dry or fresh. It soaks for 24 hours. After that you squeeze it, put 1,5 kilo of sugar and juice out of three lemons, and cook it altogether. Then you put it in warm bottles. Of course it’s being served cold, best with curd with lavender – recommends this hard-working housewife who is not a vocational cook although almost all from her family had this vocation. But her love towards cooking is stronger than anything. That is why she plans to devote to this job more seriously. Next year, she says, they plan to open an excursion site, and completely devote to it.
The best country’s ethno souvenirs
The produce 150 liters of oil
–Lavender is being picked around 15th of July when bumblebees fly away from it. Then it’s ready. On average for 100 kilos of lavender we get about a liter of oil. Yearly we produce around 150 liters of lavender oil and for refinement we use distillery in Nedešćina, while oil and souvenirs are being placed on Kvarner and Dalmatian island. Although, our dolls and souvenirs can be found around the world.
Fragrant bags
The doll Aleksandra makes once was among the best country’s ethno souvenirs on Souvenir stock in Split, Feručo praises his wife. Aleksandra, when not in kitchen, spends her time in her fragrant workshop where she prepares little packages with dry lavender. She and her son sew little bags, she shapes fragrant dolls and then they fill them. There is a lot of work, but when it’s a pleasure, nothing is hard. And for Pekica family lavender is definitely more than job.
Ten years ago when I decided to visit most of the Istrian castes, I was left stunned. First of all, with their quantity since up till then I didn’t know that in Istria there used to be sixty castles or defensive forts, and second, how nobody takes care of those who are still left standing. They were neglected, covered with ivory, exposed to the tooth of time. Like they were abandoned forever. After ten years I’m visiting them again. Partially. And I am pleasantly surprised. Some of them are restored and open for visits even though they are in ruins, and some of them are being renovated in real attractions.
Morosini-Grimani castle
Best examples for that are San Vincenti castle Morosini-Grimani and Buzet Pietrapelosa. Both of them recently got the EU money for complete reconstruction and establishment of visitors centers, stages, info desks, tasting rooms…And those magnificent buildings truly deserve this.
Yard as medieval park
Great view on San Vincenti
Because, it’s hard for me to imagine these places without this massive stone walls which determined their history. This is especially the case in San Vincenti who in history was always on border. I am inseparably emotionally connected with its castle since still it is my home place, a place where i spent my school days. The castle was our playground. Nobody was going there except us schoolkids. There was no need either.
The old castle was covered with thorns, without door, stairs were falling apart and instead of them there was a drywall. From today’s perspective it can seem unimaginable since San Vincenti castle, one of the best known in Istria besides those in Pula and Pazin, truly draws attention from inside and outside. Towers are now renovated and the square one has a beautiful lookout. The walls are walkable and they offer a great view on San Vincenti. On castle’s foothills you can see what used to be a solitary confinement and the yard is a true summer stage and medieval park at the same time. After extensive works, last piece of puzzle will be renovated as well – the palace. And it deserves it.
It is possible to walk around the walls
History reveals us it was built in late middle ages and several times it was adapted. It got its name after two Italian families who were castle’s owners. It was never a court or a resort, but fortress on the border. The first fortress on the place of today’s castle was built in the beginning of 13th century, but it was ruined and burned several times and thus renovated with changes in its appearance.
Grimaldi rebuilt the burnt castle
At first it was owned by Castropola, then Morosini family who is creditable for today’s shape of San Vincenti and its renaissance square, one of the most beautiful from that time. After that the owner became Venetian patrician family Grimani di San Luca. Today’s shape dates from year 1589 when Marino Grimaldi rebuilt the burnt castle. It stayed in their ownership until 19th century after which Grimaldi family left the castle to bishops who then left it to the municipality. After the WW2 until the end of 90s the castle was neglected.
The most beautiful renaissance square in Istria
It has three towers and main palace with rooms for gentlemen and captain’s apartment. Towers are connected with walls where soldiers could walk around. It is intriguing how besides drawbridge main door had huge sliding grids. Also, there used to be an underground prison. Castle of course has many legends and the most known one is about witch called Mare who was burned in the castle in 1632 for allegedly poisoning people.
Pietrapelosa
Hairy fortress
Although 80 kilometers away from San Vincenti, Pietrapelosa near Istrian spa is closely connected with the Morosini-Grimani castle on the south of Istria. And that is with European renovation project of this north Istria pearl to which one comes over narrow steep road above river Mirna. The name of this demolished but conservatory preserved castle, and locals simply call it Castle, in translation means hairy fortress. The assumption is this is due to its position on a cliff above Mirna and Bračani, in the middle of thick plants. Long time ago this used to be a waterway. From Pietrapelosa the traffic was carefully observed which was important also for protection of feudal property. Its position was perfect. Castle dominates in space sharply rising above Mirna and it can be seen even from slopes of Ćićarija.
Pietrapelosa raises above Mirna valley
Prvi put se ova pitoreskna utvrda spominje u dalekom 10. stoljeću, a bila je u vlasništvu akvilejskog patrijarha, pa biskupa, pa jedne njemačke viteške obitelji, pa Mletaka, odnosno plemića Nicole Gravisija u čijoj obitelji ostaje sve do 1869. godine.
His head was cut off
This picturesque fortress was mentioned for the first time in far 10th century and it was owned by the Aquila Patriarch, then by one German knight family, then by Venetians, that is the nobleman Nicolo Gravasi all until 1869. It is interesting that despite unstable territory and often changes of authorities, the fortress was never ruined. It comprises housing building, court chapel of Mary Magdalene from 12th century and main tower polygonal shape.
Main towerInside Buzet beautyCourt chapel St. Mary Magdalene
The castle is surrounded with walls except in housing part which was literally build on the cliff. Walls and main tower are preserved up to original height. Of course, this castle has legends too. One says that in 17th century a peasant shortened the Pietrapeloso master for a head while digging a ditch around the castle with other peasants. The master was whipping peasants because he thought they were too slow and at one moment he made a big mistake by taking off of his horse. His head was cut off with a shovel and after that the peasants united and burned down Pietrapeloso for revenge.
Good position for controlling waterway
Another pearl worth of visit for sure is medieval fortress Possert or Šabec near Paz which was renovated and opened for public in 2016. Today it is an interesting viewpoint with a view that seizes to Učka and surrounding hills, but before all on country estate Belaj built after Barbo family, the owner of Possert, decided to have a new court, since the last one was ruined in Uskok war in 17th century, only a few decades after it was completely renewed.
Possert near Paz
Picturesque viewpoint
Some of the palace walls and towers are being preserved until today up to their original height. The tower is 16 meters high and it had six floors, while the palace had three more, including cellar. Regarding history, this picturesque fortress was first mentioned in scriptures in 11th century as St. Martin fortress. It was owned by Aquila Patriarch, followed by families Guteneck and Moyses and in 1529 the ownership was passed to Barbo family who renovated it. It is then when the fortress got another name, Shabez.
Possert has been open for public since 2016
It was owned by Barbo familyIt’s 16 meters high
When mentioning Istrian castles and old towns, Dvigrad near Kanfanar is one of the unavoidable. Everybody knows about the legend that town and castle were abandoned due to plague, after which the inhabitants founded Kanfanar. Today many visit Dvigrad although its conservation is still not complete. The sight is a scene for many concerts and shows, and it doesn’t lack mysticism. Especially because it raises above the Lim creek.
A view on Dvigrad from Lim creek
The name Dvigrad speaks about two towns – Castel Parentino and Moncastello. The name thus suggests a place where those two castles were settled, although Dvigrad lays on preserved ruins of Moncastello. Before it was abandoned, the place was strategically important since the Lim creek was suitable for sailing until 14th century, and when the water withdrew only swamps that caused malaria and plague had remained.
Three remained families
Those two diseases were responsible for Dvigrad’s disappearance, while the remains of population moved to Kanfanar in 1630. Only the poorest families had stayed in town. It was noted that in 1650 a bishop had blessed only three remained families, while twenty years later the St. Sophia church was abandoned as well.
Former town squareDvigrad was abandoned in 1630
Otherwise, Dvigrad was surrounded with double walls, it had three defensive towers and three town entrances. St. Sophia church was settled on the highest spot, while main town square and palace were spread in front of it. In western part were rooms for army crew, while southwest part was meant for craftsmen. The rest were houses. Today only rocks remained. The time has done its own.
When the first spring sun winkles out young grass and spring flowers, especially Istrian orchids begin to sprout from warm Mediterranean crimson land, it is time for asparagus harvest. In Istria, this wild, bitter plant has been unavoidable spring grocery of every dining table from mid of March until mid of May. Due to that it became a genuine symbol of this region, together will well known truffle, prosciutto, malvasia, teran and extra virgin olive oil.
Asparaguses are one of the Istrian trademarks
Unnoticeable barbed plant
Asparagus harvest in Istria has for long been a tremendous pleasure which all the lovers of this activity are being very aware of in early spring. With a stick in one hand and with good portion of asparagus in other, you will notice them by country paths, roads, in the woods…anywhere the wild asparagus, generally unnoticeable barbed plant which offers delicious shoots, sprout.
While picking asparagus, which can become a real addiction since you always hope for bigger, thicker or nicer sprout, it is very important to find a place where other pickers haven’t set their foot yet, and best places to search are by paths and ways where you can prowl in deeper thicket. Namely, you cannot pick or even spot an asparagus only by observing asparagus shrub from above. To pick this valuable shoot, one has to bend under the shrub and move aside old spiky branches to find fresh green sprouts.
Asparagus bundles luring on Pula marketplace
This is just the way the asparaguses, which is the Greek word for shoots, are being picked in Istria for centuries. It is one of the oldest wild plant in Mediterranean, being picked ever since ancient times, first by Egyptians, then by Greeks and Romans. They believed in its healing properties, which is why they used it as cure for toothaches and insect bites. Interestingly, Romans were the ones who cultivated asparaguses to enjoy in its taste regardless the spring season. Some cultures even consider it as an aphrodisiac.
Vegetable source of folic acid
Aphrodisiac or not, asparagus for sure is one of the healthiest groceries a Mediterranean nature can offer. It is the best vegetable source of folic acid, also containing vitamin C, and minerals like sodium, phosphorus and iron. Its preparation is very simple – it is sufficient just to flush it under water and break it in smaller pieces from top towards root until the part where it became stiff. Only soft parts of asparagus are being used for preparing meals.
Asparaguses are being picked from early spring until mid-May
In Istria, the most popular traditional asparagus meal is fritata. It is being prepared in the simplest way taking only 10 minutes of your time.
Shortly stew previously broken asparagus on olive oil and then add a scrambled egg. After fritata is done, sip on it a few drops of extra virgin olive oil and the dish is ready. Besides with the top oil for which the Istrian peninsula is famous for, this meal goes along greatly with Istrian vines, especially Istrian teran, an indigenous type of wine from this area.
Black Bryony
On the menus of istrian taverns
In springtime, the asparaguses are unavoidable on the menus of numerous Istrian taverns and restaurants. Besides fritatas, they have main role in soups, salads and different types of pasta, while they go along greatly with seafood and meat dishes. They taste extraordinary with top wines produced, cherished and mellowed in Buje cellars, like far known Kozlović, Coronica, Clai, Degrassi or Kabola, but also many more excellent winemakers from this part of Istria. Also, while enjoying asparaguses don’t forget to taste one of the World’s best olive oils standing side by side with those from Tuscany in famous World guide of olive oils, Italian Flos Olei.
Aren’t you bewitched with San Vincenti? It’s very easy to be so. Those streets, square, castle, churches…This small place with around 300 inhabitants is so magical that you just have to stop and look around. Maybe even have a coffee in peace, especially in mornings when you can feel this special atmosphere. No matter if it’s winter, spring, autumn or summer. San Vincenti is always in.
Morosini-Grimani castle
Maybe you didn’t know that this place hides a dark legend that of San Vincenti inhabitants aren’t very proud of. However, the legend became one of the town’s symbols. Right here a witch, or so they thought so, was burned. Her name was Mare Radolovich and she was burned in the middle of Morosini-Grimani castle in 1632.
Sealed A Deal With Devil
She was a herbalist and was convinced for sealing a deal with devil. People who she was helping until then sentenced her on death on a pile. Of course, behind this story there is a suspicion she was having an affair with one of the noble owners of the castle, which sealed her destiny. Her story is being screened for several years now as a part of popular medieval festival in San Vincenti that takes place in August as a part of Istria Inspirita, the cultural tourism project that revives Istrian legends and history through gastro shows.
Visitors center in former Registrar’s OfficeGood-tempered witch
Likewise, this legend, as well as San Vincenti’s history, is being revived through new Visitors center House of Mare the Witch situated in old Registrar’s Office. The experience of this place who had witnessed many weddings is now completely different. Now, it’s a dark room in which the old clock hands start to spin like crazy and on the wall in front of you suddenly appears a lady from middle age. She is being revived and speaks to me: „I am Mare the Witch“, she speaks and laughs a bit spooky like in some horror movie. I gives me creeps, but I stand there still and wait what’s next.
– Don’t worry, I won’t bewitch you. The only thing that you will be bewitched from is this picturesque medieval place San Vincenti, full of secrets from the past – this virtual witch starts to speak in new Visitors center in San Vincenti in central Istria.
Mare the Witch is a hologram guide that presents the history of this center Istrian town which in innovative way through modern technology – 3D mapping and virtual and augmented reality – revives local characters and takes visitors in cultural heritage tour.
A Game About The Unknown Knight
After Mare’s introduction, through interactive VR application I start a game about the unknown knight. I put virtual glasses on my head and shoot targets with bow and arrow in medieval castle Morosini-Grimani. Still, in a dark room I see him as he used to be. I hit all the targets, but then armored enemies start to chase me. They come from everywhere, from castle’s yard and walls. The fight lasts until I defend myself.
Virtual game
After I finished a part of virtual story in former Registrar’s Office, the game continues on San Vincenti streets. I put on the augmented reality glasses and walk towards center of this small place visiting the most important spots: St. Vincenti’s church at graveyard, St. Rok’s church, St. Kathrine’s church, loggia and renaissance square and then the castle as a highlight.
A tour on castle’s walls
By walking through the town I find out everything important from history, but also legends that go along. I come in front of St. Cathrine’s church to meet medieval blacksmith. He coins me a sword. I take it, as well as I will later take a horse, an armor and a shield, all as a part of the story about medieval moments of life of this town.
A display of former life
At the end I come to the ancient castle, full of people. They go on with their own business, feeding hens, grooming horses, making carriages, firing fire…and here is my knight. The lost knight – another legend San Vincenti is famous for. Namely, in the past this place was hosting knight games similar to Sinj Alka, that was taking place at the St. John the Baptist day. In year 1713 among twenty-one competitors, victory was carried out by the unknown knight. He refused to receive the prize and rode out of San Vincenti. Thanks to victory, but also a secrecy, the story about modest knight is being kept until today. And here ends my virtual experience mixed with reality.
Magical San Vincenti church
Search For Treasure And Local Products
This is unique way how cultural heritage can be presented through modern technology, enabling visitors to travel through time and envisage life in Middle Ages through game, on special and innovative way. Glasses for AR are the first Microsoft’s glasses for mixed reality. It’s a computer with special version of Windows that serves displaying 3D hologram in space.
New path
But that’s not all. With the help of VR and search for treasure one can visit local family farms and try and buy local products, all that by following the path 692 of Mare the Witch that goes through whole San Vincenti. The point of treasure search is to end up in one of the local taverns and get the typical Istrian meal out of local products together with a prize. In future, if possible, with e-bikes.
Dinneridi trail
The path is a part of Dinaridi Trail. This educational trail networks five family farms and it’s 33,2 kilometers long. On the path the visitors encounter logical riddles which are placed inside the farms. By going through the trail and solving riddle, visitors „collect“ their meal grocery by grocery and at the same time get to know products from local farms: Wine, olive oil, sheep chees, lavender, donkey milk. The trail can be passed with bikes, by foot, with quads or with horses.
It is combined with asphalt and macadam, out of which there is 14.4 kilometers of asphalt road and 18.8 kilometers of macadam road. Its length depends on the choice of way of passing it. The trail is in category of easy trails and its suitable for all age groups of visitors. It will be marked on web site Istria bike paths, as well as it will be put in their brochure. Descriptive information will be translated in English, German and Italian.
On each of networked family farms there is an info table with trail map with marked family farms and information about the farm you are visiting at the moment. On this way visitors can get information about scope of activities of specific farm, as well as basic information through pictures about each networked farm. Tables are bilingual, written in Croatian and English so information is adjusted for both Croatian and foreign tourists.
Morosini Wines
In visitors center visitors get a brochure with a map containing inscribed educational path with family farms one should visit in order to “collect the foodstuff”. From San Vincenti visitor starts moving in a direction of Foli where the first family farm Živolić, whose business is production of vine, is situated. “Medežija vina” is a project run by Dalibor Živolić and Edi Bilić which started in 2015 when the first 1000 bottles of white Morosini, autochthonous malvasia sort, and red Morosini, autochthonous terran sort, were produced. The goal is to present home-made wine from San Vincenti municipality and thus promote long-lasting tradition of growing grapevine and making wine in these areas.
Thematic park in Rapanji
Under the info board there is a logical riddle labyrinth for visitors to solve independently or through team work. When a visitor solves a riddle, family farm host perforates a card that visitors get at the start of a game, after which he can pass to another spot and its riddle. Card perforation means that a visitor has successfully “collected” foodstuff which is a part of a recipe.
After that visitors go towards another family farm, Ranch Toni owned by Dragica Lenić from Štokovci. Dragica’s family farm exists since 2008. She breeds domestic animals, including 15 Istrian donkeys, five horses of different breed, pigs, cows, hens. Her goal is to protect home made products, but also a donkey milk who’s benefits for human health are well known. On Ranch Toni visitors have to solve a game of guessing and once they finish it, they move toward next family farm.
Istrian breed “pramenka”
Family park Macan is situated on Stancija Čipuli and for many years nourishes tradition of sheep breed, that is of autochthonous Istrian breed “pramenka” whose milk is used in small dairy “Istarski cvijet” for production of sheep curd and delicious Istrian cheese. Basic product is being combined with truffles, so they offer cheese with truffles. On Macan Family farm one has to solve a logical game including beam scale and solution is closely connected with family farm’s activities.
The forth family farm on Dinneridi path is family farm Pekica, situated in village Pekica, specialized for lavender and lavender products. On their fields more than 36.000 lavender seedlings were planted – three hectares of lavender “Grosso”, a hectare of lavender “Budrovka” and the rest are different sorts, out of which one is eatable. The family farm offers different lavender products and their logical game is tangram.
Medieval Thematic Park
After solving a tangram, visitors head towards final spot of a path, thematic park St. Michael owned by family Otočan. The park is situated in Raponji. This wooden castle completely revives middle age through exhibition of replicates of medieval weapons and thematic arranged rooms. The castle holds a souvenir store, but also a small zoo garden with domestic animals. Besides that, family Otočan produces excellent olive oil. When visitors solve final riddle within the family farm, they give their perforated card to the farm’s owner.
Family farm Pekica’s lavender fields
In case a visitor managed to solve all five riddles from all five family farms, it means he/she collected all the groceries needed for preparation of traditional Istrian meal which is being prepared in St. Michael castle of the last family farm.
This project enabled bike and footpath 33,2 km long which connects locations of family farms involved in the project. Bicycle path is arranged with signalization using “Dinneridi Trail” logo in order to differ from other paths in this area. On the entrances of each family farm there are info and educational tables about products they offer, and on each table there is a route map marking each family farm involved in the project.
It’s cold outside, it’s raining cats and dogs. You come inside and suddenly you are in another world. A world of a hundred years ago. I fold the umbrella. In front of me is an antique table with brandies and wine, old mugs and bottles. To the left a fire crackles in a beautiful ancient hearth, to the right is an old drawer laden with wine bottles, and on the walls are old photos and faded pictures of saints. Before World War II, such pictures were an indispensable part of the interior of any home.
The house is about 300 years old
It is a small room, maybe 30 square meters, which evokes life of a well-to-do family in the past in an Istrian village, at a glance. Yes, I entered the new wine museum in Grandići in the Barban area — a kind of treasury of the ethnological heritage of Istria, which opened its doors in September last year. It operates on the principle of an eco-museum.
The name of the place is “100% made in Grandići by Johan and Matija”, and it occupies a stone house that has remained intact for more than 300 years. Here, old tools and appliances evoke the way people used to live and work in the Barban area — how our ancestors made wine, brewed brandy and made wine vinegar.
An old picture of Johan and Matija
The biggest winemakers
At the door we are greeted by the owner, a fifty-year-old Edi Radola, an olive grower of the Barban area, whose goal was to preserve and disseminate traditional Istrian values and customs. Together with his partners, Stanko Ružić and Deniz Šverko, he runs the OPG Brig small farm, producing vinegar, homemade wine (teran and malvazija from the Grandići area) and create useful items from olive wood. All their products are on display in the museum; the potable ones ready for tasting in the nearby wine cellar and tasting room after a tour of the house.
Hanging out at an antique hearth
— Why is this place a wine museum? Because about fifty years ago in Grandići Johan and Matija produced about 6,000 liters of Teran every season. I only knew Matija. They died without children, having dedicated their lives to the making of wine. They were one of the biggest producers in the Barban area. Some of their barrels could hold two to three thousand liters. Work was long. Spraying the vineyard sometimes took Johan 15 days. Matija sewed soft pads on the belts of the spray canister backpack to make it easier on Johan’s shoulders.
Old tavern
The house still features remnants of the winemaking trade, such as dark spots on the wall from old spills of red wine. Interestingly, one of Johann’s ancestors used to sell teran to the well-known Barban canon (high priest) and scientist Petar Stanković, who wrote a widely known scientific paper on that wine variety. His paper was one of the foundations for the Croatian claim in the dispute between Croatia and Slovenia in Brussels over the rights to the teran name, eventually amicably resolved. It can thus be said that it was this family that helped the world know about teran now, says Radola as he takes us on a tour of the ground floor of the museum.
Edi Radola knows a lot about history of the house
Authentic untouched ambience
The first room, the one with the fireplace, used to be the kitchen as well as the dining room and the living room. This was where the family life took place. No additional space was really needed. From that room, a wooden staircase leads you down to the cellar, which Radola had preserved in its original form. It now holds wooden barrels in which Radola makes a special kind of vinegar with sugar and honey, as well as some old vineyard, soil tilling and wine cellar tools, such as sieves, clippers, sickles, billhooks, old hammers, and much more. There are also two depressions in the floor of the cellar. Radola says they were used to beat hemp plants to separate their fibers. The house also has old original furniture that Radola has restored. Upstairs, not for sightseeing, at least not yet, are rooms that Radola would like to remodel and make them available for staying overnight.
There used to be pictures of saints on the walls in every house
— According to their documents, the life of this family can be traced back to 1791. The documents should all be translated now, so that we can get to know it in more detail. According to some documents, we can see that Johan took out an agricultural loan in Vodnjan. We know they were quite wealthy. They had a servant in the house, a local woman, and boškarin cattle, and employed people to do farm work. Johan died sometime in the 1970s, and Matija in the 1990s. No one has lived in the house since, says Radola.
The tour begins with a wine tasting
— Everyone loves to come and see this museum because it has an intact authentic ambiance. At the same time, I have connected the house to the story of the crown of King Tomislav, which was told to me by a priest, Don Luka Kirac. Everyone knows the legend. For me, it fit the story of the house very well, because I found a carved stone head while digging the pit for the swimming pool over, across the yard. It is said to represent King Tomislav.
No crown
This was confirmed to me by the Croatian Restoration Institute in Juršići. Of course, there is no crown. Although the legend is associated with the village of Belavići, the crown may well be hidden in any village here, including Grandići. Interestingly, the crown was never found, and people are still searching for it, says this lover of history and tradition who has invested his entire self into the arrangement and decoration of the house.
Head of King Tomislav — but where is the crown?
He believes that old taverns and stone houses are something original that can intrigue everyone, and his wish is to tie all family farms in the Barban area into a network and set up a walking trail for both locals and tourists.
— I would like the family farms to join a network with their taverns and smokehouses and offer everything they have. People will thus circulate from village to village, from family farm to family farm and enjoy the delicacies and typical products of the Barban area. The whole idea is still in its infancy, but I believe it will be realized, concludes the head of the museum. The house of Johan and Matija will be a perfect place for presentation of the whole story and will provide the opportunity to sell home products at the doorstep.
Vinegar for wealthy families
Radola is especially proud of his home-made vinegar. This one is really special because it is not made from wine, but directly from grapes. Once upon a time such vinegar was made by wealthier families.
— Vinegar for poor people used to be made from sour wine, while the fine one for the rich was made from grapes — from chasselas and isabella, somewhat better varieties. The production process was the same as for wine. The juice would be made from the fruit first, and then left to acidify. At that point, sugar and honey were added. Vinegar should mature in wooden barrels for as long as possible. It would first be kept in a large wooden barrel and then transferred to small ones. It must not be allowed to acidify completely, stresses Radola.
Original exhibits
Traditional building with clay
Radola also shows guests the old craft of traditional building with clay mud. In cooperation with Vodoprivreda and Natura Histrica organizations, he wants to revitalize the local Gustovac pond, the habitat of the strictly protected chanterelle turtle, the so-called frog turtle.
— Vodoprivreda, the water utility, is the owner of all ponds in Istria, and following the example of the Slovenian part of the Karst, we would like to renew ours, too. Gustovac will be cleaned and clay will be brought in for shoring up the banks and the bottom. In spring and autumn the pond is full, but it dries out during the summer drought, which is not good for turtles, Radola explains.
‘Ćakule’ — chatting in the tavern
In addition, as part of the “100% made in Grandići” project, planned together with Natura Histrica, a kind of theme park would be created around the Križica area near the village of Orihi.
— Križica is special — he says. — There is a cave there that could be open for visitors. The entire area is overgrown with sage, helichrysum, and juniper. The idea is to mark the space with a plaque in three languages. There are plenty of old dry stone walls there, in ruin and disrepair, and the idea is for tourists who walks or runs through the area to be encouraged to pick up five rocks from the ground and place them back on the walls. In time, the traditional dry walls would be restored, thinks Radola.
Did you know that Istrians used to be armed up to their teeth? Yes, it’s hard to believe, but I can tell you from my own experience. Nevertheless, they never mentioned it, nor did they praise it. But almost every family had a piece of weapon at home, a riffle or a gun. They didn’t talk about it because carrying a weapon was forbidden in Istria, however they were hiding it wherever they could. That is why today you can find old guns and rifles bricked in walls of old houses, barns, beams, roofs. Wherever they knew that nobody will find it. By the words of Mario Ferlin, passionate fan of old weapons from San Vincenti, only those who were close with ruling class in time of Venice, Austria, Italy or even Yugoslavia were permitted to own a weapon.
Mario Ferlin in his museum
His small intimate museum of old weapons from period from 1400 till 1870 took place right there by the grand medieval castle Morosini-Grimani. It’s only a part of his great collection of 150 pieces of different items, riffles, guns, firelock, cannon, knifes, munition, bags for munition and other that he collects for years.
-Here I presented only a part of the items, but I continue to collect, so my collection grows. It all started 30 years ago as a hobby. Instead of classic antique I started to collect weapons. First piece was an old revolver from 1889 Which I got as a gift. It was a great novelty to me and I immediately fell in love. And I was always intrigued by the story there was no weapons in Istria. Istrians were supposedly unarmed, but then I started to discover all those items that tell us that we were just like anybody else. Nevertheless, unlike Slovenian, our old weapons are rusty because we always had to hide it somewhere, tells us our collector with a smile on his face. Even his father also hid an old riffle in barn under the beams until then 10 years old Mario found it. But when his father realized that gun became Mario’s toy, it suddenly disappeared.
Museum entrance
His hobby, Mario says, is stronger than anything. Thus it was only a matter of time when he would put everything in one place and reveal it to public. Finally, he did it three years ago opening a collection which reveals great surprises, often unknown. Always polite, this history, tradition and old weapons lover will take you easily to a secret world that shows us a lot about migrations and movement of people. His collection hides Venetian, British, Turkish, Austrian, Belgian and other weapons. From military to civil which was used back in old days for self-protection or hunting. And it is very interesting how some pieces of weapons found in Istria belonged to Ottoman empire. It tells a lot about inhabitants who brought it from somewhere to these areas, some as a souvenirs, some for self-protection.
Valuable treasure of his collection
-Istrians used to be very poor and everyone managed as one could. That very gun or riffle saved many from hunger. I remember when hunting was starting people took their pieces with them end went straight to rabbit holes because they knew where they were. They were waiting for their chance and returned home with lunch or dinner. Many families were surviving like this, says Mario who plans to move his collection in old castle after its renovation. Even now castle host many summer festivals, like Medieval or Festival of nonverbal theatre.
The collection is planned to be moved to the castle
– There were plans already to move the collection in renovated castle tower, but it stays like this for now. At the moment the castle hosts European project Kulturterra and the money it gets from it will help to finish overall renovation, after which in one room the collection will find its place, because it truly belongs there, says Ferlin. And he is telling the truth! When he was renovating some old buildings in San Vicenti, he found the most valuable treasure of his collection – old Venetian cannon from year 1400. And what is the best, at the moment apparently it’s the only such cannon in the world!
The oldest cannon in the world
– And I found it accidentally, he continues to explain.
Castle inventory
-We were digging something and suddenly we found this piece of metal. At first I didn’t even know what was it, but I realized it served as an anvil. Later, according to some internet research, I realized it could be a cannon and that was confirmed to me by Janko Jelicic from Zagreb with whom I cooperate regarding cleaning and maintenance of weapons. He used to be a curator in Croatian Historical Museum in Zagreb and he’s a great expert for old weapons. He told me also that this is the only such piece of old weapon that has been found which used to be a part of castle inventory and that it’s one of the oldest cannons as such. This can be confirmed by castle Morosini-Grimani inventory listing from 16th century done by castle captain who listed all the castle’s weapons.
– The listing mentions this cannon and bastion riffles, spears, halberds, but interestingly no swords. And this cannon is peculiar because it was not molten, but created from several pieces, while his range was even a kilometer. Unfortunately, in my collection I don’t have bastion riffles from our castle, but I do have identical ones from that time, this collector continues to explain. He adds that generally today it’s very hard to find Venetian cannons from that period.
It Wasn’t Recycled Like Most of the Cannons
– The cannon was probably saved because it was used as anvil. It was buried in the ground, so it never got recycled like most of the cannons. Otherwise, best cannons from every series of production from Napoleon time were held in museum. They were board up to a ship to be brought to Louvre. Unfortunately, the ship with 150 cannons was sunken and now those cannons are gone, Mario tells us this interesting story woven in a book of Italian historian Marco Morini about Venetian cannons, where this particularly worthy one from San Vincenti collection is mentioned as well.
-Unfortunately, there is no cannon ball for this cannon, but some others, much bigger, Mario continues. He is especially proud to own a collection of civil pistols which today can be found only in Istria.
– Those pistols are interesting to me, but not because they are special. Obviously there were a lot of them and today it is the most common piece of weapon that can be found in Istria from the period before WW2. What is interesting is that they had been found in such number only in Istria. Almost every village had it, which says to me and other historians that in Austro-Hungarian times it was probably given to heads of villages for raising an alarm or some other signals, Mario says.
Otherwise, Mario collects only firearms, but cool weapon really not as well.
-I buy it sometimes, but only if I cannot buy a piece of fire weapon I want, but it’s too expensive for me. And I only buy cool weapon from Austrian times, it comes as an aspirin to me, a comfort for wounds, this San Vincenti guardian of history and old tales concludes with joke. And there are many old tales in this place. You only need to dig a bit in a foundation of some old house that awaits its renovation only to glow again in its old radiance.
Like in all Mediterranean countries and regions, in Croatia and Istria winegrowing runs through veins of native people. Grape vine is one of the most typical breeding cultures that succeeds on this heart-shaped peninsula for centuries. Winegrowing started to grow rapidly here back in Roman times and one of the most significant descriptions of Istria dating all the back from year 1650 comes from Novigrad’s Bishop Tommasini who mentioned even 15 Istrian sorts of grapes, among which the most important ones are prosecco, muscat, rebula, refošk, teran, hrvatica, trebijan and malvasia.
Malvasia is a common name for a number of different or related sorts which have been present in Mediterranean vineyards from ancient times. Depending on the color of soil from which malvasian sorts are being grown, malvasia can be divided on blanc (white), rose (rouge) and nero (red). They differ by various characteristics including fruitfulness, period of maturation, disease resistance and ambient affinity.
Wine under the name „Malvagia“
Curiously, there are even fifty cultivars under this name, and even eight of them have been registered only in Italian national register of wine sorts. That makes Italy a home for most of the malvasia cultivars with biggest prevalence of soil covered with this sort.
Danas postoje mnoge varijacije istarske malvazije
Malvasia is being grown as well on Spanish Canary Islands and Portuguese Azores, but also on the continental parts of these countries. Further, it has significant place in France, Slovenia, Montenegro, Albania, California and Greece. According to many, Greece is home of its name. “Malvasia” is closely connected with Venetian Republic and its wine trade from Greek harbor Monemvasia from Peloponese, which in translation means a harbor with one entrance, to Venetian properties and other markets on continental part of Europe. Greek Malvagia was being sold in Venice already in 14th century, and premises where sale was being conducted were called “Malvasie”. Still, according to some information, malvasia dates all the way BC.
New revival came after 1990
In Croatia there are two known sorts – Istrian malvasia and Dubrovnik malvasia. Istrian malvasia firstly came with Venetians, however only at the end of 19th and beginning of 20th century after phylloxera infection it became peninsula’s main sort of grapevine. Before malvasia, lead position was held by teran and refošk.
Malvasia harvest in Dajla
More extensive researches about Istrian malvasia were conducted after 2nd WW and results confirmed the authenticity of this Istrian sort of grape. Its new revival came after 1990 with intensified quantity and quality production. From then to this day small wine cellars appear throughout Istrian peninsula offering excellent wines of this sort, thus establishing Istria recognizable in respectable world’s wine guides and commended by wine experts such as Steven Spurrier and Oz Clarke.
Bunches of Malvasia
Rounded and harmonic wine
Malvasia is a mid strong white wine which contains between 11,5 and 13,5 vol.% of alcohol. Experts describe it as full, rounded and harmonic wine with significant flower-frutish bouquet potential. Its specific taste reminds on acacia flowers and most dominant fruit aromas are apple, plum and apricot. In ripe wine one can also experience slightly bitter almond taste.
Malvasia harvest in September
For many years Istria is a home of several wine manifestations dedicated to this sort of grape and wine. Competition “World of Malvasia” provides yearly insight to international scene of these wines right before Vinistra, the biggest Istrian wine exhibition that takes place every May. The goals of the “World of Malvasia” are to gather as much as possible sorts of this wine in one place, to promote specificity and quality of different sorts, to present new trends in production and to award best wines.
Istrian Malvasia Festival
Wines are being awarded by top Croatian and international experts according to strict competition rules harmonized with regulations of International organization for grapevine and wine (OIV). Through this manifestation Istria wants to position itself as a central place for winemakers, consumers and experts interested in this sort.
Unavoidable site for every malvasia lover in Istria is a small place Brtonigla near Buje, from where the very top bottles of this wine are coming. Every year in June Brtonigla organizes Istrian Malvasia Festival where guests have a chance to visit local wine cellars, taste top quality wines of this sort and have a conversation with respectable winemakers. At the same time degustation guided by experts are being held so wine lovers can find out more about flavor, bouquet, and characteristics of the queen of Istrian wines.
These seas were sailed by ancient Greeks erewhile,
by Neretvans ere banished to exile.
On good wine they imbibed must stand the blame
for giving our cove such lovely name.
Long gone are Greeks but their name stands still;
Yet we drink good wine here, and always will.
The verses by venerated Istrian writer Mate Balota depict his beloved bay of Kalavojna under Rakalj. The cove was not just a passing inspiration to him, a motif from rural life on frugal rocky land. It was his life destination, a place from which he gladly went on fishing trips and where he would sit at the hearth in an old stone house of the Saulig family with a glass of good wine — Kalavojna comes from the in ancient Greek term for good wine — and rest his eyes on the sight of Cape Ubac on the opposite side of the Bay of Raška.
Formerly a family home, today it is a mansion above beautiful stone beaches, which are no longer just a hideaway for local fishermen but also attract increasing numbers of tourists. It bears witness to the past. The house attracts the eye of sailing tourists who cruise the remote bays on the eastern Istrian coast in search of the ideal beach. Who would not want to spend part of the summer here? From the house, stone steps lead to the rocky shore and the crystal clear sea.
In addition to offering accommodation at an attractive location, the house also has a rich past. Owner Onorina Nikolić and her brother Romano Saulig, descendants of a family that once lived here, recall the childhood spent in Kalavojna in detail.
The house also has a rich past
Onorina shows us every corner of the old summer house. Old fishing tools decorate every corner of the living area. Not to mention the old hearth… For every item, and there are many, we get a comprehensive explanation. A raised stone frame covered by a wooden board catches the eye.
— It’s the oldest šterna (water cistern) of this house. It was there when the building was requisitioned by the Austro-Hungarian army. I do not know exactly when the oldest part of the house was built. All I know is that my great-grandfather Ivan purchased it with the surrounding land when he moved here from Friuli with his son, my grandfather Joseph. It was the first half of the 19th century. My grandfather later married my grandmother Fuma Krelja of Rakalj and had seven children with her. As the family grew, the house was expanded by their sons. Three more houses were built as extensions to the existing one. This is where our family stayed the longest, until the early 1950s, when we moved to Pula. After that, we would only stay here in the summer, recounts Romano.
There used to be a roadside tavern as part of the house
Romano’s grandmother ran a tavern in the house in the late 19th and early 20th century. At the time, Greek sailors were regular visitors to Kalavojna and its good wine.
Only an old corkscrew, which Onorina and her husband Zvonko found when they first renovated the house, recalls the old days. Back then, Kalavojna was also a hangout for people of Rakalj, who would occasionally throw bocce in the Sauligs’ courtyard. Where the old zog court used to be is now a well-kept courtyard. Sitting on the stone benches in the shade of the grape vine, with the aromas of cypress, rosemary and oleander, it is difficult to resist the attraction of the view on the Bay of Raša, and decide to get up and return to the city bustle.
